Cathedral enamel is a meeting of colour, light and metal structure. The name recalls the stained-glass windows of cathedrals: not a simply coloured surface, but a pattern that changes its appearance as light passes through it or grazes it.
In the The Genesis collection, Settecinquanta has chosen this imagery for jewellery to wear every day. Rose windows, arches, leaves and the geometries of the South become forms to wear, built through filigree, enamel and small contrasts of light.
What does “cathedral enamel” mean?
In the language of goldsmithing, the expression refers to the luminous effect of translucent enamel set within a metal structure. The historical technique closest to this idea is plique-à-jour, literally “letting in the daylight”. The Victoria and Albert Museum describes it as a technique in which light passes through the enamel, producing a glow that changes with its intensity and the time of day. The Metropolitan Museum of Art highlights its resemblance to a tiny stained-glass window.
This guide describes the visual language of Settecinquanta. Specific materials, finishes and variants are always listed on the page of each piece.
Why is filigree so important?
Filigree is not mere decoration. It is the structure that sets the rhythm of the jewel: it outlines petals, circles and fields of colour, creates solids and voids, and guides the eye. When it meets colour, each thread becomes like the dark outline that separates the fragments of a stained-glass window.
Up close, you notice the minute details of the craftsmanship; from a distance, the overall form emerges. It is this double level — precision and presence — that makes the collection’s rings, earrings, necklaces and bracelets so recognisable.
From the rose windows of Puglia to a jewel to wear
The rose window is an architectural form built around a centre. It changes from church to church, yet keeps a balance made of repetition, symmetry and openings to the light. For Settecinquanta it is a starting point, not a literal copy.
The geometries are simplified, shifted and lightened. A petal can become the link of a necklace; a radial sequence can turn into the face of a ring; a leaf can repeat along a bracelet. The result keeps its connection with Alberobello and Apulian architecture, yet remains contemporary and easy to wear.
How does colour change in the light?
The same jewel can look more intense in the shade, brighter near a window and warmer in the light of sunset. Skin, fabric and the colours worn alongside the jewel also change how the enamel is perceived.
This is why the variants are not simply colour alternatives. Red brings out the design; blue creates depth; green and aqua converse with the Mediterranean light. Product photographs show colour under controlled conditions, but each piece keeps changing with the person who wears it.
How to choose the right jewel?
If you are looking for a concentrated accent, you might start with a ring or a small earring. Larger forms bring out the relationship between filigree and colour more fully. Necklaces and bracelets, on the other hand, reveal the repetition of the motif and follow your movement.
The simplest way to choose is to look at three elements: the scale of the form, the colour of the enamel and the rhythm of the filigree. On each product page you will find dimensions, available variants and specific guidance.
How to care for filigree and enamel?
Store your jewel in a dry place, away from other objects that could scratch it. Clean it with a soft cloth and avoid direct contact with perfume, cosmetics, salt water and chlorine. If in doubt, always follow the guidance on the product page first, or contact Settecinquanta.
A form of light to wear
Settecinquanta was born from the idea that a jewel can hold a place within it without becoming a souvenir. Filigree preserves the gesture of the hand; enamel brings colour; the rose window gives rise to the form. Together they create small objects of light, chosen in our Alberobello boutique and designed to be lived in every day.
Discover all The Genesis jewellery.
Historical background: Victoria and Albert Museum, metalworking techniques; The Metropolitan Museum of Art, plique-à-jour enamel.
