In short. Settecinquanta does not simply sell gold jewellery: we make it ourselves and, when a design includes stones, we set them in-house. A gold jewel moves from drawing to metalwork, then to setting and finishing. Knowing these stages helps you choose better and understand what you are buying.
What a goldsmith does
Goldsmithing is the art of turning precious metals into objects to be worn. It is different from simply reselling: whoever makes a jewel knows its weight, its alloy, its structure and its delicate points. That is why they can explain it, repair it and, when needed, alter it.
At Settecinquanta, working with gold is the heart of the shop. It is the part of our craft we do not hand over to anyone else.
From drawing to metal
Every jewel begins with an idea of shape and proportion: how wide a ring should be, how much an earring should weigh to sit well on the lobe, how a chain should fall around the neck. From there we move on to the metal.
The gold used in jewellery is not pure: it is an alloy. Pure 24 carat gold is too soft for a piece worn every day. Combined with other metals it becomes stronger and takes on different shades, from warm yellow to rose to white. 18 kt gold contains 750 parts of gold per thousand: it is the fineness we use for the Gold 18 kt collection.
Workmanship and surfaces
The shape comes to life at the bench. The links of a chain are joined and finished one by one; a band can be pierced, woven or diamond-cut, that is, engraved with tiny facets that catch the light. These are the techniques you find, for example, in the Intreccio, Foglie di Luce and Geometrie di Luce rings, or in the curb and modular links of our bracelets and necklaces.
Each step changes the character of the jewel: a polished surface reflects, a satin one holds the light, a diamond-cut one breaks it into tiny points.
Stone setting
When a jewel includes stones, they have to be set: fixed securely in the metal without blocking their light. It is a stage of great precision, because the metal must grip the stone firmly enough to hold it for years, yet without marking it.
The most common techniques are the claw setting, with small prongs holding the stone; the bezel setting, with a continuous rim around it; and the pavé setting, with many small stones placed close together. In our shop, stone setting is done in-house: this lets us check every stone and step in if a jewel needs maintenance.
Finishing and inspection
Before it reaches the display case, every piece is finished and inspected: polishing, then checks on clasps, solder joints and the security of the stones. Only then is the jewel ready to be worn.
On gold jewellery made in Italy, the law requires two marks: the fineness in thousandths, for example 750, and the maker’s identification mark, a five-pointed star with a number and the province code. Together they are the guarantee of what you are buying.
Why it matters when you choose
- You know who you are talking to. Whoever makes the jewel can tell you how it is made, how much it weighs and how to look after it.
- Simpler aftercare. Clasps, sizes and stones can be checked in the same place the jewel was made.
- An informed choice. Seeing workmanship and finishes up close helps you understand the difference between one jewel and another, beyond the price.
Frequently asked questions
Does Settecinquanta make its own gold jewellery?
Yes. We make our gold jewellery ourselves and, when a design includes stones, we set them in-house.
What is stone setting?
It is the stage in which stones are fixed into the metal, for example with claws, a bezel or pavé, so that they stay secure without losing their light.
Why is the gold in jewellery not pure?
Because pure gold is too soft for everyday wear. Alloyed with other metals it becomes stronger: 18 kt gold contains 750 parts of gold per thousand.
How can I recognise guaranteed gold jewellery?
By the stamped fineness, for example 750, and by the maker’s identification mark with a star, a number and the province code.
Sources and further reading
- Legislative Decree 251 of 22 May 1999: the Italian rules on fineness and identification marks for precious metals.
- Gold 18 kt jewellery: the collection, with weight and measurements on each product page.
- 750 gold: what it means: our guide to gold fineness.
